Why I Want to Eat Like a Peasant

Good food doesn’t have to start with the most expensive cut. I’ve been thinking about peasant cooking, Jacques Pépin, and how simple meals can help keep good farming part of everyday life.

By Chris Baggott
5 min read

Roasted chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy on a white plate.

Photo: Lisa Top

Jump to the chicken dinner recipe

Somewhere along the way, we started confusing good food with expensive food.

A beautiful steak for an anniversary. Something special when company comes. Then Monday rolls around, and feeding the family goes back to whatever is cheap and convenient.

I think there’s another way to look at this. And it starts with a word most Americans probably wouldn’t consider a compliment.

Peasant.

In France, paysan can be a proud identity. The farmers represented by Confédération paysanne connect their work to the quality of what they produce and their relationships with the people who eat it.

I like that. There’s dignity in growing food, caring for a place, and feeding the people around you. Maybe we should be a little more comfortable with that word ourselves.

And maybe we should think differently about peasant food.

Think about the kind of everyday cooking Jacques Pépin teaches. His book Cooking My Way is built around economy and resourcefulness: inexpensive cuts, using what’s already in the refrigerator, saving trimmings for stock, and turning leftovers into another meal.

He makes ordinary ingredients look like something you can’t wait to eat.

That’s what interests me. So much of what we love about comfort food comes from making the most of what’s available. A pot of beans. A stew. A chicken cooked with vegetables. Food that feeds a family and makes people happy to sit down together.

You don’t need a filet to do that.

Take our chicken leg quarters. They come from the same pasture-raised birds as the breasts. Same farming. Same care. Choosing a different cut doesn’t mean giving up the way the animal was raised. Our pasture-raised chicken thighs belong on that everyday table, too.

The same goes for ground beef and chuck roast. They belong on the everyday table just as much as the more expensive steaks belong on a special one.

A less expensive cut isn’t a lesser ingredient. Sometimes it just asks you to cook it differently.

Good Food for Everyday Meals

Choose what your family needs for the week ahead.

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When people talk about the cost of food from farms like ours, the conversation often gets stuck in two choices: spend more than you can afford, or accept whatever the industrial food system offers at the lowest price.

I think peasant cooking gives us a third way.

Choose good ingredients where you can. Learn a few useful ways to prepare them. Use what you buy. Let a different cut, a simple preparation, or tomorrow’s leftovers help make the numbers work.

That doesn’t mean farmers should work for less. We need farms to earn enough to care for their land, their animals, and their people. Cutting corners until good farming becomes cheap defeats the whole purpose.

It means helping people get more meals and more enjoyment from what good farming produces.

And yes, time and money are real constraints. Cooking advice doesn’t magically solve either one. But we can make the starting point practical. Eggs for dinner. Chicken legs in the oven. Ground beef for a meal your family already loves.

This is where I think quality food becomes a powerful way to push back against the industrial food system.

Every time you buy directly from a farmer, you help keep another option alive. You can ask questions. Tell us what your family needs. Learn how your food was raised. We can respond.

That’s a relationship worth building.

At Tyner Pond Farm, I want us to become part of your regular grocery shopping. The food you order for this week or next. The ingredients you reach for on a Tuesday when everybody’s hungry.

Good farming belongs at that table, too.

That’s why I want to eat like a peasant.

There’s a lot of pride, pleasure, and independence in that idea.


Here’s a simple chicken dinner idea inspired by that approach. This version hasn’t been kitchen-tested yet.

Download the printable recipe PDF

Oven-Braised Chicken with Onion Gravy and Mashed Potatoes

A simple supper of bone-in chicken, soft onions and potatoes, with gravy made from the pan juices.

Serves 4 | Estimated total time: 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes

Original recipe; not kitchen-tested.

Ingredients

Chicken and gravy

  • 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken leg quarters, thawed (about 3-4 lb total)
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme (optional)

Mashed potatoes

  • 2 lb potatoes, peeled if desired and cut into 1-inch chunks
  • 2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
  • 1/2 cup warm milk or reserved potato cooking water, plus more as needed
  • Salt and black pepper, to taste

Equipment: Use a wide, deep ovenproof pan with a lid that holds all four quarters in one layer. If necessary, divide between two ovenproof pans and cover tightly with foil.

Method

  1. Brown the chicken. Heat the oven to 375°F. Pat the chicken dry and season with the measured salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large, deep ovenproof skillet or braiser over medium-high heat. Working in batches, brown the chicken skin-side down for 6-8 minutes, then 2 minutes on the other side. Transfer to a plate.

  2. Start the gravy. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of fat. Lower the heat to medium. Add the onions and cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring, until softened and beginning to brown. Stir in the flour for 1 minute. Gradually stir in the broth, scraping up the browned bits. Add the thyme, if using, and bring to a simmer.

  3. Braise and finish uncovered. Return the chicken skin-side up in one layer. The liquid should reach partway up the meat, below the skin; add a little broth if needed. Cover and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake for 20-30 minutes more, until tender and a thermometer reads at least 165°F in the thickest part of each thigh and drumstick, away from bone. Continue cooking if needed; size affects timing. The skin will be browned, but braising will soften it.

  4. Make the potatoes. While the chicken bakes, cover the potatoes with cold water in a saucepan and salt lightly. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15-20 minutes, until easily pierced. Reserve a cup of cooking water and drain. Mash with the butter or oil, then add the warm milk or cooking water a little at a time. Season to taste.

  5. Finish and serve. Move the cooked chicken to a clean plate. Skim excess fat from the gravy; simmer on the stove for 3-5 minutes if it needs thickening, or loosen with a splash of broth. Taste before adding salt and pepper. Serve one leg quarter per person with mashed potatoes and onion gravy.

Food safety: USDA recommends cooking all poultry to at least 165°F, measured with a food thermometer.

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